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San Sebastian and Bilbao are two key destinations in Spain’s Basque Country. San Sebastian stands out for its excellent restaurants, scenic bay, and historic old town, while Bilbao has transformed from an industrial center into a hub for culture and modern architecture, largely thanks to the Guggenheim Museum. for culture and modern architecture, largely due to the Guggenheim Museum.
I visited both cities during a four-day trip with friends, spending my first night in San Sebastian before heading to Bilbao for two nights. On the final day, I took a solo bus trip from Bilbao toward the Bakio/Gaztelugatxe area to visit the famous islet featured as Dragonstone in Game of Thrones. One of my favorite moments was reaching the top of Gaztelugatxe, though I’ll admit, I made the classic mistake of underestimating the strong wind up there!
This San Sebastian and Bilbao itinerary is designed for first-time visitors who want to see the highlights of Spain’s Basque Country without rushing.
I am on my mission to visit all 50 provinces of Spain. On this trip, San Sebastian was number 9 on my list and Bilbao was number 10.
How to Get To San Sebastian or Bilbao From Madrid
Both cities are reachable from Madrid by train, bus, or car. Here is a breakdown of each option.
By Train
Renfe operates regular trains from Madrid-Chamartín-Clara Campoamor station.
- To San Sebastián: Around 5 hours on the fastest Alvia/Intercity services from Madrid-Chamartín-Clara Campoamor to Donostia-San Sebastián station.
- To Bilbao: The quickest journey to Bilbao-Abando station is around 4 hours 50 minutes.
Booking ahead using platforms like Omio or Trainline often helps you find some of the lowest fares sometimes starting at just €23 if you catch a deal. Prices change depending on the time and service, so it’s practical to compare options before you commit.
By Bus
ALSA runs daily coaches from Madrid to both San Sebastián and Bilbao. The journey usually takes 5–7 hours, depending on the service. Buses generally depart from Estación Sur or Avenida de América in Madrid.
By Car
From Madrid, take the A-1 (Autovía del Norte) north toward Burgos, then continue on the AP-1 toll road toward Vitoria-Gasteiz and onward to San Sebastian. Total drive time is roughly 4.5–5 hours depending on traffic. From San Sebastian to Bilbao, the AP-8 coastal motorway takes about 1 hour.
Top 10 Things to See in San Sebastian and Bilbao
- La Concha Beach and Bay (San Sebastian) — A city beach with a wide, walkable promenade. The view toward Isla de Santa Clara is pleasant and easy to reach. Early mornings are less crowded.
- Monte Igueldo Funicular (San Sebastian) — Take the historic wooden funicular from the west end of La Concha to the top for panoramic views. Return ticket is €5.50 for adults, and the ride is quick and straightforward. Runs every 15 minutes, typically from 11:00 to 20:00.
- Parte Vieja (Old Town, San Sebastian) — The old quarter at the base of Monte Urgull features narrow streets, historic plazas, and the Basilica of Santa María del Coro. It’s compact and easy to explore on foot.
- Monte Urgull (San Sebastian) — A free hilltop walk with forested paths, old fortifications, Castillo de la Mota, and sweeping views over La Concha Bay, the fishing port, and the city skyline.
- Zurriola Beach and Kursaal (San Sebastian) — The city’s surf beach and modern cultural landmark. The contrast between the contemporary Kursaal building and the rugged coastline makes this one of the most photogenic areas in Donostia.
- Guggenheim Museum Bilbao — Frank Gehry’s museum building has permanent exhibitions, including works by Richard Serra. Adults pay €16–€18. Open Tuesday–Sunday, 10:00–19:00. Book tickets on the official museum website to avoid scams.
- Casco Viejo & Plaza Nueva (Bilbao) — Bilbao’s historic Siete Calles district is ideal for wandering on foot, with arcaded squares, pintxos bars, Santiago Cathedral, and the riverside around San Antón.
- Mercado de la Ribera (Bilbao) — One of Europe’s largest covered markets, combining fresh produce, local specialties, and casual food stalls that are perfect for a relaxed Basque lunch.
- Zubizuri Bridge & Nervión Riverside (Bilbao) — Santiago Calatrava’s white footbridge connects the modern riverside districts and offers some of the best walking and photography opportunities in the city.
- San Juan de Gaztelugatxe — An island connected to the mainland by a stone bridge and 241 steps. Featured in Game of Thrones. Entry is free, but you need a reservation during high season. Reserve at public.tiketa.eus/gaztelugatxe. Bring your original ID or passport—photos or copies won’t be accepted at the entrance, and checks are strict. Starting in 2026, if you arrive more than 60 minutes late for your reserved time slot, your reservation will be automatically canceled.
[PHOTO IDEA: Looking back from the hermitage at San Juan de Gaztelugatxe toward the mainland]
San Sebastian – Bilbao DIY Itinerary
Day 1: La Concha Bay, Parte Vieja, Monte Urgull & Zurriola
Morning: Arrive at Donostia-San Sebastián station and get checked in. Head to La Concha seafront and take a straightforward walk along the promenade. It takes about 30 minutes from one end to the other, giving you a basic orientation of the bay and city layout.
Afternoon: Enter Parte Vieja from the east end of the beach. Spend time in Plaza de la Constitución — the former bullring turned public square, balconies numbered where spectators once sat. From here, climb Monte Urgull for free via the paths behind the church of Santa María. The summit has a fort (Castillo de la Mota) and a large statue of Christ. Views across the bay and over the port are worth the 30-minute walk up.
From Monte Urgull, continue toward the eastern side of the city and walk along Zurriola Beach. The surf atmosphere feels completely different from La Concha, and the Kursaal is especially striking in the late afternoon light.
Evening: Return to Parte Vieja for the pintxos bar crawl. The local custom is to go bar to bar, ordering one or two pintxos and a small drink (a zurito — a small glass of draft beer) at each stop.
Cultural Tip: In traditional pintxos bars, locals often drop their used paper napkins on the floor. It may look a bit messy, but a bar with plenty of napkins underfoot is usually a sign you’ve found a spot loved by regulars!
Day 2: Monte Igueldo & Bilbao
Morning: Take bus line 16 from the center to Monte Igueldo or walk along the beach (about 25 minutes). Ride the funicular to the top (€5.50 return). The amusement park is small, but most people come for the views, which are easy to access and photograph. Aim to return before lunchtime to avoid queues. Afterwards, walk some of the nearby streets or stop for lunch nearby.
Afternoon: Take the ALSA bus from San Sebastian to Bilbao (1 hour 15 minutes) and check in.
Evening: Walk through Bilbao’s Casco Viejo, the old town, also known as the Siete Calles (Seven Streets). Explore Santiago Cathedral, Plaza Nueva, and the riverside around Iglesia de San Antón. This is one of the best areas in Bilbao for a first evening because everything is close together and easy to explore on foot.
Day 3: San Juan de Gaztelugatxe & Nervión Riverside
Morning: Book your Gaztelugatxe reservation at public.tiketa.eus/gaztelugatxe as soon as you know your plans. The visit is free, but a reservation is required in high season. From central Bilbao, take Bizkaibus line A-3517 toward Bakio (about 1.5 hours).
Mid-morning: From the bus stop, follow signs to Gaztelugatxe. There’s a 2–3 km walk each way before the steps. The 241 steps up to the hermitage typically take 20–30 minutes. You can ring the bell at the top (a local tradition). On clear days, the coastline is visible from the summit.
Afternoon: Return to Bilbao and spend your afternoon strolling along the Nervión riverbanks. Walk across the Zubizuri Bridge and continue through the modern riverside district toward the Guggenheim area. The contrast between the white bridge, the river, and the contemporary architecture is one of the city’s most enjoyable walks.
Save major attractions like Mercado de la Ribera and the Guggenheim for Day 4.
Day 4: Guggenheim Museum, Mercado de la Ribera & Modern Bilbao
Morning: Start at the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao when it opens at 10:00. Buy your ticket online in advance. Plan to spend at least 2 hours here, a bit longer if you’re interested in the details. Walk outside the museum to see Jeff Koons’ Puppy and Louise Bourgeois’ Mama nearby—these are easy photo stops.
After the museum, continue along the river for a short walk through Bilbao’s modern waterfront, including the area around Zubizuri if you didn’t fully explore it the previous day.
Afternoon: Head to Mercado de la Ribera for a relaxed lunch. Explore the food stalls and try some local specialties, or find a quiet café for a break. This is a flexible afternoon, so use it to revisit anything you missed in Casco Viejo, browse local shops, or simply enjoy Bilbao’s everyday atmosphere as your trip comes to a close.
Evening: Depart or rest before traveling home.
Where to Eat
San Sebastian
Bar Nestor – A popular spot in Parte Vieja. If you want to try their famous tortilla, arrive right at 12:00 or 19:00 and put your name on the list—the tortilla is served at 13:00 and 20:00, and by then it’s almost always gone. The tomato salad (in season) is also worth ordering. While you’re here, don’t miss the Gilda—a classic pintxo of olive, guindilla pepper, and anchovy—which was invented just down the street at Casa Vallés in San Sebastian and is considered the must-try starter in the Pintxos Capital. Must-order: Tortilla de patata, Gilda. Price range: €5–€12 per person for pintxos and drinks.
La Cuchara de San Telmo – A counter-service bar in Parte Vieja that does more elaborate, cooked-to-order pintxos than the typical bread-and-topping format. It gets crowded fast. Arrive early or expect to wait. Must-order: Carrillera de cerdo (braised pork cheek pintxo). Price range: €15–€25 per person.
Bar Borda Berri – A few streets into Parte Vieja, with a small but well-curated selection of pintxos. Less chaotic than some of the more famous bars. Must-order: Risotto de hongos (mushroom risotto pintxo). Price range: €10–€20 per person.
Where to Try Burnt Basque Cheesecake in San Sebastian – Donostia
La Viña – This is the place that made burnt Basque cheesecake (tarta de queso vasca) famous around the world. It’s in the heart of Parte Vieja, and the cheesecake is served in generous slices with a creamy center and deeply caramelized top. Expect a queue at peak hours, but it usually moves quickly. If you’re doing a pintxos crawl, I’d save room and stop here for dessert rather than ordering a full dessert at another bar. Price range: €6–€8 per slice.
Where To Eat in Bilbao
Bar Txakoli – A classic in Casco Viejo, known for skewered pintxos (banderillas) piled high on the bar. The scene here is fast and lively, especially around lunchtime. Must-order: Gilda (the original pintxo — olive, guindilla pepper, and anchovy on a skewer). Price range: €8–€15 per person.
Café Bar Bilbao -On Plaza Nueva in Casco Viejo. The terrace is one of the most pleasant spots in the city. Good for a long lunch. Must-order: Bacalao al pil-pil (slow-cooked salt cod with garlic oil — order it as a ración if available). Price range: €15–€30 per person.
Mercado de la Ribera food stalls – Several stalls inside the market serve hot food at lunch. Buy what looks fresh, find a stool, and eat like a local. Price range: €10–€18 per person depending on what you order.
Where to Stay in San Sebastian
Luxury: Hotel Maria Cristina -A five-star hotel on the Urumea River, steps from the old town and the conference center. One of the most storied hotels in northern Spain. The film festival crowd stays here every September. Estimated price: €300–€600 per night.
Mid-Range: Pension Aida – A well-reviewed guesthouse in Parte Vieja with clean, comfortable rooms and a central location. Ideal base for first-timers. Estimated price: €80–€140 per night.
Budget: Cristina Enea Rooms – Simple, clean rooms in the old town. No frills, but a solid location and fair pricing. Estimated price: €50–€90 per night.
Where to Stay in Bilbao
Luxury: The Artist Grand Hotel of Art – Directly facing the Guggenheim Museum. The design interior is a deliberate dialogue with Gehry’s building across the street. Estimated price: €200–€400 per night.
Mid-Range: Eurostars Indautxu – In the Ensanche district, convenient for both the Guggenheim and Casco Viejo. Estimated price: €90–€160 per night.
Budget: Casual Bilbao Gurea – Budget-friendly option in the Ensanche with good public transport links. Estimated price: €50–€90 per night.
Final Thoughts About San Sebastian and Bilbao
Best time to visit: May–June and September–October. Spring brings mild temperatures, fewer crowds, and the city functioning at its natural pace. September is when the San Sebastian International Film Festival takes place — book accommodation months in advance if you visit then. July and August are busy and expensive. Winters are wet and grey, but pintxos bars and museums don’t close for rain.
Pro-Tip: For Gaztelugatxe, check the mandatory reservation calendar as soon as your dates are confirmed. During peak months, slots fill up. Reservations are free — the cost is zero — but without one, you may be turned away at the site. Book at public.tiketa.eus/gaztelugatxe. For the Guggenheim Bilbao, buy tickets on the museum’s official website (guggenheim-bilbao.eus) to avoid third-party fraud — the museum itself flags this prominently.
Local Weather Tip: The Basque Country is famous for its light, misty rain known as sirimiri. Even in spring and summer, a light raincoat is far more useful than sunglasses. It’s a practical essential—pack one and you’ll fit right in with the locals.
Luggage logistics between the two cities are awkward if you’re moving on a tight schedule. Rolling a suitcase across the cobblestones of Parte Vieja is not fun. Use luggage storage facilities at the train or bus station and move your bags separately if you can. Parte Vieja is compact so you do not need your full luggage to explore it.
Best Day trips Ideas from San Sebastian and Bilbao
- Vitoria-Gasteiz — The capital of the Basque Country is one of Spain’s greenest cities, with a medieval old town surrounded by urban parks. It’s about an hour from Bilbao by train or bus and has a completely different character to the coastal cities.
- Pamplona — Famous for the San Fermín festival, Pamplona is a beautiful city with a well-preserved historic center even when the bulls aren’t running. It’s about a 2-hour bus ride from both Bilbao and San Sebastian, making it a longer day trip, but definitely a rewarding one.
- Zarautz — If you’re looking for something quick and easy from San Sebastián, Zarautz is an ideal choice. It’s just a 20-minute train ride along the scenic coastline. The beach is popular with surfers and the town is relaxed—a perfect low-key escape if you want sand and sea without a complicated commute.
- Santander — The capital of the neighboring Cantabria region has a more elegant, stately vibe, and its El Sardinero beach is stunning. It’s about a 1.5-hour bus ride from Bilbao, so it’s very doable if you start your day early.
